Tuesday, 30 August 2011


From experience, There are men for whom buying a blazer is a matter of price alone, and they sacrifice alot knowing how to determine blazer fit, as well as sport coat or suit jacket fit takes only a little time and minimal effort, with a big dividend of knowledge and style

So before you buy your next suit or sport coat, learn how to determine blazer fit all by yourself...

Measuring for Blazer fit:
   Measuring to determine blazer fit is a matter of measuring your chest and knowing your shirt sleeve length. You'll need to obtain a tailor's or seamstress's soft measuring tape if you want to know how to determine blazer fit. First, measure your chest by wrapping the measuring tape around the fullest part of your chest just below your arms. Doing this yourself is easy and helps determine blazer fit when you extend your shoulder as you hold the tape.

Where the cuff should rest:
    The jacket cuff should never rest against the back of your hand, and it should never touch the base of your palm. The truth is, this is a blazer and not an item of outerwear that you use to protect yourself against the elements. A suit jacket or blazer cuff should end a half-inch to three-quarters of an inch before reaching your palm. This allows you to wear a long-sleeve dress shirt without the two cuff competing for movement

How much Shirt Sleeve to Show:
    Unbeknownst to most men, the shirt cuff is meant to be seen just a little. The amount, however varies from a quarter to one-half inch of the shirt cuff. This does not mean you should buy a shirt with longer sleeves. The shirt cuff should fit your arm properly and rest just as the base of your palm. You may need to have the jacket sleeves altered to achieve this look.

Proper Vent Fit:
     The vent on a blazer or a suit jacket is meant to allow ease of movement when sitting. Many Italian jackets are vent-less, which has its place in the pantheon of style but you also end up with crumpled and wrinkled jackets because you sit on them. Good-news is that most HARKEN jackets are either Side-vented or Centre-vented. A centre-vented jacket is still the most versatile and particular for all men and it should never look stressed or pulled apart. The Fabric should simply lay over top of itself. If the vent looks splayed or pulled when you walk then the blazer is either too small or the cut is too narrow. A double vented (side-vented) has an aristocratic look, but once again, you'll be sitting on the back flap, which means pressing the jacket regularly

Some Dos and Don't s:
  Avoid the childish act of stretching out your arms and flexing your back when trying on a blazer. They are not designed for this movement and even the best-made jacket will look silly. What you should do is determine whether you need a short, regular or long jacket. This is governed by your height and makes all the difference in the world in terms of final fit and look
  If you are 5'7" a short jacket length is needed
  If you are 5'8" to 6' you are a regular
  If you are 6' to 6'3" you require a long
  And anyone over 6'3" is an extra-long.
Properly fitting your blazer for length helps with the way the jacket will drape and your overall look.

Fit like a Glove:
    The details of how to determine blazer fit may seem tedious, but once you do this you'll have a better understanding of how your measurements translate to better style. Wearing the right jacket is not always about spotting the latest trend or the hottest designer; sometimes it's just about how good a 44L blazer feels when you take the time to find the right fit.

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